A Complete Guide To The Wismec Predator 228
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A Complete Guide To The Wismec Predator 228

Wismec Predator 228 Preparation

In this part of the guide we’ll break down the basic operation, settings, and running of the Predator 228 mod. We will cover how to get it up and running, installing the batteries, and installing the tank — if you bought the complete kit. We will look at verifying authenticity and making sure everything is set for first use. If you have already set the device up and are comfortable running it — maybe you are just looking for specific settings — feel free to skip this page and move on to the in-depth running options on the next page.


Authenticity Check:  As soon as you purchase the Predator you can check to make sure your device is authentic. On the back of every single box from Wismec there is a small white panel containing a QR code and scratch off check box. You can either scan the QR to take you to Wismec’s site or verify it here. Scratch off the panel and insert the code, after a few seconds your device will be verified. If you have any other questions about the authenticity of the device, feel free to contact a Wismec consultant via email or phone.

Wismec Warranty Policy:  Wismec products are covered under manufacturer’s warranty for 90 days from the date of purchase, which can be found  here. Everything is self-explanatory on the site, as with most companies they cover manufacturer’s defects and problems caused with Wismec products. They won’t replace your device if you bounce it off a rock face and into a pond, but will generally take care of you for other issues. Keep your receipt in your box to show date of purchase and they will see if its a problem they can fix.

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  • NOTE: If you have damage caused by using another manufacturers tank — especially one with a longer 510 connector than the device can handle — it won’t be covered.

Preparation Before Use:  Make sure the battery that you’re using is according with the Battery Warning Card included in the packaging of your device. Before you begin vaping, you need to also make sure the tank is filled with enough e-liquid, along with ensuring that you’ve primed your coils correctly so that you don’t kill your coils before you use them.

Installing The Batteries:  Installing two 18650 batteries that you’ve purchased separately from the kit is required to power the device. Sliding the small tab on the battery door will open the compartment so you can insert the power cells. Make sure that the battery polarity lines up with the markings inside the lid. Once installed, close the lid and the lock will click back into place.

Attaching The Elabo (or other tanks):  Make sure the tank is full, the coil is installed correctly, and primed before attaching it to the powered device for the first time. Insert the 510 connector into the Predator and screw it down until it feels snug. Don’t over-tighten the tank as you may damage the connector on the box — this is advice we give on any box mod. 

GET THE WISMEC PREDATOR 228 MOD HERE

About the author

Daniel Hall

Avid Vaper, advocate and cloud chaser. Writer for 3 vaping websites and broadcaster/presenter as Vapin Demon on Coast 2 Coast Vapers.
Originally from Manchester, England, I got bored one day and moved to the USA.
Vaping saved my life and my aim is to save as many others as I can.

19 Comments

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  • You forgot one.

    To reset the puff counter on the Wismec Predator
    1) Press the fire button 3 times
    2) Press the left adjustment button to select the puff counter “P”
    3) When the puff sign blink, keep pressing the fire button and then you can reset the puffs to zero

  • Had this for a week and for some reason my side button stopped working and the adjustment buttons on the front make the mod fire without stopping. Returning this for a new one. Nothing I have done will make this work again

  • My Predator’s display just ceased working this weekend. Last Saturday it would still show the command confirmation like Stealth On/Off or Key Locked/ Unlocked. It just wouldn’t show anything on display. It still fires my RDTA so it’s not totally broken. I may need to return this to the reseller where I got it from…

  • Can someone please tell me how to get the key lock off. For some reason on both my units it’s on key lock and I can’t change the watts. I have tried everything they say to do.

  • Had my Predator 228 for a few months before things started getting weird. I usually use it in TC mode and the resistance calculation would start resetting and asking if I was using a new coil or the old one. Then when pressing the button, the heat would bounce up and down before outputting almost 0W while saying the temp was at the preset limit, even though it was cool. I dismantled it and cleaned everything, which seemed to fix it for a few weeks, now the 510 connector is loose and the TC mode is almost unusable. I love the design but this is a very poorly made mod. Stay clear of it, I won’t be replacing it with another.

    • And also, it randomly switches into Wattage mode and has to have the atty removed to set it back to TC mode. Finally it will now often report atty short, but when I put the atty onto another mod it fires fine.

      • That’s a sure problem the 510 is starting to come loose. I’ve had 2 and while neither has came out I get short issues all the time. Sometimes taking the tank off or batteries out and resetting the board helps but just temporarily, I’d suggest taking it apart and soldering 510 to the case but make sure to sand flush so everything will fit back but if your not comfortable with solder I’d recommend a new mod.

  • got to say i have had no problems until recently, it says attomiser short, i have to take the batteries out and back in and it works again, is it on the way out and do i need to replace the unit or is it a simple fix?
    i have cleaned the unit so no juice on it, its been well looked after so not sure why, i have used several tanks on it and they are fine but 1 tank will not work on it?/ any advice would be greatly appreciated tia……..

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